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                                                                TAILORED

25/2/2016

 
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As much as I love feminine, floaty dresses, there an undeniable allure of sleek tailoring.  Structured seams, well-tapered trousers and a subtle

adornment; you're ready to take on whatever the day brings. We've come a way since the shoulder pads of the 80's, which meant business.  They

weren't called power suits for nothing! My cousin brother works in an menswear atelier, and I was happy to be invited to see the seams come

​together...


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​I picked up some new sewing terminology whilst on the floor, observing the tailoring process. The cuff features 'kissing buttons'; called so due to

the gentle overlap of the fastening.
 Manipulating the fabric with the mannequin here is a new realm of learning; considering different contours of

​ the masculine form. A sewing machine is such a good investment, especially for simple alterations of cuffs and hems.  
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Womenswear has adopted the strong silhouette of menswear for some seasons now. I appreciate the versatility of a crisp shirt or tailored jacket,

combined with a casual dress or slouchy jeans. That's the nature of a well-crafted piece; it's perfect for creating a polished look. The painted

miniature canvas captures how cinching a blazer at the waist changes the look, becoming a tailored top in itself,

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​It's always the little details that ​create areas of interest. The atelier was awash with a golden glow, reflecting the gleam off the cufflinks and

embellishment. It was a trove of different fabrics and textures - e
xploring the plush velvets, tactile tweeds and cotton blends, I may have to invest in

a silk bow tie and put a D&T spin on it. Trying on a jacket, it of course, engulfed me in its size and excess fabric. There is, however, the appeal of an

​ oversized men's suit jacket as a dress? Watch this space...

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Having seen shows about Savile Row ateliers, it's inspiring to see tailors who have spent years committed to their craft. They execute fabric cutting

with precision, stitch deftly and mould the design for a perfect fit, If I had a bespoke piece created for me, I would have a subtly patterned lining.

​Sometimes it's what you don't see on the surface that adds that extra special touch, 
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The golden ribbon brooch was retrieved from the beadtrove; instant luxe for your lapel. The next time you see it, it will most likely be incorporated

onto a fabric canvas. 
I adapted the pinstripe blazer I'm wearing and I think back to the days of my university course. We worked with pattern blocks

, cutting and sewing multiple pieces of fabric. Like a jigsaw, it was great to see the design evolve,  I find sewing a therapeutic way to spend time, A

​flat material becomes three-dimensional with time and effort; it's a real labour of love. 

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